The
First World War was the start of rapidly changing styles usually counted down
in decades. Just hearing someone say the ‘20s or ‘30s, ‘40s or ‘50s conjures up
mental pictures of the iconic fashions from each decade.
At
the beginning of WWI, men of all stripes wore three piece suits, hard-wearing
boots and hats or flat caps. At that time, women wore high-waisted styles with
skirts down to the ankle and large hats. As the war dragged on, hats became
smaller and skirts rose to the calf. Dress became much more practical as both
men and women had work to do and, in many cases, uniforms became the order of
the day.
After
the new found freedom women had discovered when they were needed while the men
were away fighting, many women were not content to step back into their old
niche. Fashion reflected the new attitude and short skirts and straight boyish
silhouettes are synonymous with the Roaring Twenties; an age of Flappers and
Jazz.
The
thirties ushered in a return to elegance. This time is remembered for dresses
with long flowing bias-cut skirts and tops that revealed shoulders or backs.
This was fashion popularized by Hollywood pictures as many could not afford to
cut a fashionable figure in the decade after the Wall Street crash.
With
the forties it was back to war, back to uniformed armed forces and women once
again performing jobs to take up the slack while the men were away. In Britain
there was also clothes rationing. Garments were restricted in the amount of
fabric, buttons and other embellishments that could be used. A more tailored
look with shoulder pads became popular as shoulder pads could be fashioned from
scrap material. With a motto of “Make do and mend” there were few fashion
statements that could be made by the average civilian.
When
the war was over, women needed a change and Christian Dior’s New Look caught on
like wildfire when it was introduced in 1947. Its full skirts were not only
feminine but signaled an opulence that was not rationed.
During
the war years, man or woman power was needed. There was no mention of
discrimination against the aged in the literature that I studied. I believe
that many of the Home Guard in WWII were men that were too old to join the
regular forces but whose dedication to their duty was sorely needed during the
blitz. In the years between the war, women of a ‘certain age’ may have found
the new styles challenging to wear but they must have worn them or they would
have appeared out of style. Or did they? The fifties idealized the family with
male breadwinner, a home in the ‘burbs and wife as homemaker. Perhaps it was this
limited vision of ‘normal life’, that caused society of this decade to still
cling to the notion of age related dress.
Sources:
Futura. Working Life in Britain 1900 to 1950. Little, Brown Book Group, London, 2007
Godfrey, Ottilie Vintage Fashion: Classic 20th-century styles and designs. Arcturus Publishing Limited. London. 2013
Lofts, Norah. Domestic Life
in England. Weidenfeld and Nicolson, London, 1976
Thane, Pat. A History of Old
Age. Thames and Hudson Ltd, London, 2005
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